Bologna, finally and again

We used this title because, while we’ve walked through Bologna at night, we are finally going to see different areas during the day. Prepare yourself for lots of pictures.

One of us slept in so we didn’t leave the house until almost 11 am. It was a bustling morning – dining in the alleyways, shopping, walking the baby, walking the dog(s)…  the make-up of the crowd here consists of plenty of retired couples but age 0 to 40 looks to be the majority. A lot of them are university students.

Today we are doing our pre-planned walking tour around the Piazza Maggiore (Main Square). One our way to the piazza, we realized that they shut down the major roads leading to and around the piazza to motorized traffic. It made getting around the area easier (except for trying to stay out of the sun).

Saturday shoppers and strollers
Saturday strollers and shoppers
Saturday strollers and shoppers

The first place we stopped was Cattedrale di San Pietro (Cathedral of St. Peter).  This was one of those, “We’ve walked by here over and over.  Let’s stop.” moments that resulted in a wonderful stop.  The artistry of the sanctuary was beautiful.  The church was built and consecrated in 1184.

Sanctuary of Cattedrale di San Pietro
Above the altar in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Pipe organ in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Altar in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Wall in the Cattedrale di San Pietro
Entrance to Cattedrale di San Pietro
Altar in Cattedrale di San Pietro
This wall has at least 15 different colors of marble in it
Chapel area in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Chapel in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Altar in chapel in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Chapel in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Chapel in Cattedrale di San Pietro
Lamentation over the dead Christ in terra cotta
Characters in Lamentation over the dead Christ
Characters in Lamentation over the dead Christ
Characters in Lamentation over the dead Christ
Sanctuary of Cattedrale di San Pietro

We went into a chocolate shop, but most things are wrapped up beautifully, so the scent wasn’t like chocolate shops in the US.

While Linda stopped in an optical shop, Dave visited Palazzo d’Accursio.  This building used to be the administrative offices site.  It is now commercial property.  Dave was amazed by the difference between the exterior and interior look and feel.

Palazzo d’Accursio (old town hall), sorry the streets are too close to get a better picture of the architecture
Interior of Palazzo d’Accursio

We continued our walk and stopped at Tower Galluzzi which is one of the remaining defensive towers from the 12th century.

Lots of color at this store
Torre Galluzzi or Galluzzi Tower

We entered the Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio which is on Piazza Maggiore.  The buildings originally were a part of the University of Bologna.  Now they house the library.  Dave read that the scholars quickly built the Palazzo so as to impede the expansion of Santa Maria della Vita’s growth.

Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio
Entry light and ceiling in Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio
Ceiling of the portico in the Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio
Portico of Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio

The shops and outdoor markets were overflowing with cured meat and cheeses, bread, and pastries (see lunch photo), fish, fruits, and vegetables. We decided to do some ‘take away’ ordering and go home for lunch. We had a bottle of prosecco that our host greeted us with that we hadn’t drunk and we didn’t want to carry it to Florence tomorrow. We bought salami, prosciutto, mortadella, gorgonzola, a loaf of bread, a wild berry tart, pompoloni (which was like a lemon cream filled roll) and with the fruit we bought in Modena yesterday, it was quite a spread. Yum.

Produce stand on Via Drapperie in Bologna
Vibrant lunch area in Bologna
Hams at Simoni salumeri in Bologna
Flowers for sal on the street in Bologna
Flower for sale on the street in Bologna
Produce stand in Bologna
Meringues for sale at Paol Atti e Figli
Our lunch being prepared
Dry pastas at Paola Atti e Figli
Dry pastas at Paola Atti e Figli
Dry pastas at Paola Atti e Figli
Pastries at Paola Atti e Figli
Pastries, customer, and server at Paolo Atti e Figli
Architecture of Bologna
Architecture in Bologna

As we headed home, we encountered the Asinelli Tower and Garisenda Tower.  These are considered the “Two Towers.”  They are likely the most famous of the ancient towers.  As you can see in the picture, the Garisenda Tower has a significant lean to it.

Asenelli Tower
Asinelli Tower and Garisenda Tower, note how Garisenda Tower in leaning (not my photography skills)

At 5 pm we headed back out, starting at the Basilica di San Petronio then going to Santa Maria della Vita. We have seen so many beautiful churches that we didn’t feel the basilica stood out, though there are plenty of pictures.  Maybe we were just expecting more.  Santa Maria is a small church and quite beautiful.  It’s strange how our expectations have changed regarding how nice the churches need to look.

Basilica di San Petronio

Sanctuary of Basilica di San Petronio
Basilica di San Petronio Sanctuary
Fresco behind altar in Basilica di San Petronio
Statuary above altar in Basilica di San Petronio
Chapel in Basilica di San Petronio
Chapel in Basilica di San Petronio
Chapel altar in Basilica di San Petronio
Chapel details in Basilica di San Petronio

Santa Maria della Vita

Santa Maria della Vita
Altar in Santa Maria della Vita
There is a rotunda in the center of the sanctuary in Santa Maria della Vita. One of the statues around the rotunda.
There is a rotunda in the center of the sanctuary in Santa Maria della Vita. One of the statues around the rotunda.
There is a rotunda in the center of the sanctuary in Santa Maria della Vita. One of the statues around the rotunda.
Chapel in Santa Maria della Vita
Chapel in Santa Maria della Vita

We walked down streets we either hadn’t been on or couldn’t remember if we’d been on them, did a bit of shopping (bought a funky pair of reading glasses at the Farmacia). After that, we decided to sit and listen to the jazz ensemble that had Piazza Maggiore packed with people.

Open air market in front of Bascilica San Stephano
Negroni and a Chianti while listening to music

Then Linda found a gelato site that was in the top seven in Bologna and it was close to our apartment. We both had Nocciola (hazelnut) and Caramello Saltato (salted caramel).

Dave let me into the apartment then went back out to listen to more music.

Crowd listening to “jazz” music
Neptune at night

When he got back, we tried some of the walnut liqueur that the host offered – it was strong and nutty

Dave brought up the Cubs game, figuring it was a good way to relax before bed. We had about 14,000 steps today (which is not the record for this trip!).



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