The morning started slowly for all of us. We finished up Monday’s blog and then Jim prepared breakfast for us. He made eggs and mushrooms. Anne took care of toasting the newly baked bread. It was a fantastic meal.
After breakfast, Jim, Linda, and Dave took a walk on a trail below and around the town. We started near where we took sunset pictures the other night and then walked around the “middle” base of the butte to where the funicular station is located. It was about a 1.6 mile walk with elevation changes of about 400 feet that took us about an hour to complete. It wasn’t extremely strenuous, but the pace had more to do with stopping to take pictures in multiple places. It was a nice walk.
Street scene in OrvietoStreet in OrvietoMap of hiking trail around Orvieto – we entered at Ingresso 5 in the lower left and exited at the Piagge e fuicolare in the upper right which was about 1.6 miles with a total elevation gain of about 400 ft.View from trail around OrvietoView from trail around OrvietoLinda and Jim hiking on trail around OrvietoDave & Linda on trail around OrvietoView from trail around OrvietoView from trail around OrvietoLinda and Dave on trail around OrvietoView from trail around OrvietoJim and Dave on trail around OrvietaView from trail around OrvietoView from trail around OrvietoView from trail around OrvietoView from trail around Orvieto toward the train station in the middle of the picture
Funicolare ascending to Orvieto
After the walk, we decided it was important to stop and have an adult beverage (a well-known Gateway tradition). We visited the Tennis Bar which is next to the funicular station. Linda and Jim each had a beer and Dave went with an Aperol Spritz. We got an aperitivo of potato chips and two kinds of cheese puffs.
Our reward for our hike (Gateway people understand this))
We then walked home a spent a little time visiting.
Jim and Dave walking back to the apartment. Note the snowflake light. It seems they can’t wait to put up Christmas decorations any better than we can.It seems we need to come back in December to confirm “Does Santa Claus exist? … YES!!!”
Jim got a call from their friend and landlord, Pasquale, about getting together to discuss something he is helping them with and he wanted to meet us, as well. Linda and Dave went with them and spent about a half-hour talking with Pasquale. Pasquale invited us to see the cave under the home which they use as a wine cellar (they only use the first level of the caves). It was very cool (figuratively and literally). He then showed us the rest of the family space we were in. He was a gracious host and we were very happy we got to meet him.
Part of the wine cellar in the caves below the house Jim and Anne live in.Pasquale explaining to us how they remodeled the caves and the desire to have a more Tuscan approach where things are not in a line and protrude from the wall. Unlike the “straight” walls built by Orvietans.Wine cellar in caves of house Jim and Anne live in.This glass circle in the floor in the family space we were in is open to the caves below the house.Pasquale, Jim & Anne’s “landlord” and friend. In case you couldn’t tell that Pasquale is Italian, we thought we’d show how well he can speak with his hands.
After Jim and Anne finished their meeting with Pasquale, we left for an appointment Anne had and the rest of us went to the Blue Bar. Anne met us there and she, Linda, and Dave left to go back to a leather shop we saw yesterday. Linda and Anne each got a leather bracelet at the shop. We then headed back to the Blue Bar. After staying about one and one-half hours, it was easy to see why they find the bar enjoyable. It was less crowded than the other night and the people that were there were all very nice to be with. Anthony, the owner, treated us like family. We also got to see Phillip again. Jim told us that Phillip used to be a very highly sought-after fashioner designer. Well, before we left, we heard both Anthony and Phillip sing.
Anthony signing to customers
Phillip singing to usBlue Bar – A gift from Anthony for us to remember him by
We then went back to Tavern Engel Keller where we had dinner the other night. This time we each had the pork shank (Dave and Linda shared one and Anne took half of hers home; Dave wishes he had his own, but half was probably better for him). We also had salad with the meal.
Tavern Engel Keller – SaladsTavern Engel Keller – Stinco, pronounced “Steeko”, pork shank
It was then time to head home and get ready for bed. Tomorrow’s departure for Siena was going to be an early one. The train leaves at 8:20, so we’ll need to be moving by 6:30 and out the door by 7:15.
First, we forgot to include in yesterday’s post a video that Dave took on one of his walks on Sunday. It is a group that is promoting a musical event that takes place next Sunday.
Monday morning started with confirming the proofing of the bread from the night before. Everything looked good, so we had to figure out how Linda was going to bake it. Well, we still needed parchment paper. Dave headed off to Pam, but that was to no avail. If they had it, Dave couldn’t find it (or foil or waxed paper). So, it was off to the kitchen store. Dave used Google Translate to determine what to buy, should he find the baking supplies. Lo, and behold, there it is, aluminum foil, waxed paper, cling wrap (not any of those names, of course) and, ta-da, corte forno (baking paper). The discussion to confirm what this was comical at best. Once he got home and opened the box, Linda agreed that it was the right stuff. As a follow-up, during our afternoon walk, we stopped at Pam and, this time, Dave quickly saw the corte forno. Oops.
After taking the bread dough out, re-forming it, and getting it set to proof, again, we decided this was the right time to visit Orvieto Underground.
First proofing of the bread looks good
There are about 1,200 cavernous areas under Orvieto. Most of them are under houses and are private property of the homeowner. In fact, Jim and Anne’s apartment house has a private cave. They have not been to it, but the property owners do use it.
Orvieto Underground – Map showing buildings in black and underground caves in redThe property in the center of this picture is where Jim and Anne live
The two caves we visited today with Orvieto Underground were quite impressive. The engineering that went into them by the Etruscans. These caves date back to hundreds of years before the birth of Christ. They were used by homeowners to make and store items such as olive oil and wine. Additionally, there were some caves that had small “boxes” cut into them that were to allow pigeons to roost. These pigeons were a source of food and commerce for the people of Orvieto. The mature pigeons would come and go from the caves. The immature pigeons were either sold or eaten. The plus of pigeon over chicken was that pigeons would leave the roost to search for food and then return. Chickens on the other hand would need to be cared for and fed. The visit to the caves was interesting and we’re glad we did it.
Orvieto Underground – View to valley later in the tour as the fog was fadingOrvieto Underground – View to the valleyOrvieto Underground = View to the valleyOrvieto Underground – View to the valleyOrvieto Underground – This room was constructed in Etruscan style, noted by the peaked ceilingOrvieto Underground – Olive oil press in caveOrvieto Underground – Wheel turned by donkeys to olive pressOrvieto Underground – Chimney area on the right (not darker color) and entry on the leftOrvieto Underground – Storage area in caveOrvieto Underground – Tool marks in ceilingOrvieto Underground – You can see the tool marks in the cave ceilingsOrvieto Underground – Pigeon nesting holesOrvieto Underground – Cistern for pigeons and cleaningOrvieto Underground – Linda and pigeon nesting holesOrvieto Underground – Nesting holes for pigeonsOrvieto Underground – This shaft going up is another 40 meters to the surface. Note the steps on the side for the works to climb down and up.Orvieto Underground – This well is 43 meters down to the bottom (actually, the original bottom was 80 metersOrvieto UndergroundOrvieto Underground – Stairways to additional cavesOrvieto Underground – Narrow passageway in caveOrvieto Underground – This area was used as a bomb shelter during World War II. The tunnel behind the gate led to the hospital.
After the caves, Linda and I went out for a walk and some lunch. We attempted to go to a restaurant recommended by Jim, but we found it was closed. It seemed to us that a sizable number of places were closed. We returned to Antico Bodega al Duomo where we ate the other day when Linda had a salad and Dave had a prosciutto and mozzarella sandwich. This time we had pappardelle with cinghiale (wild boar … a dish recommended to Linda as one of her “go wild” activities) and a pomodoro with mozzarella salad. Both were outstanding (the wild boar tasted like strong ground pork) and went well with the glasses of wine we had. We then took a little walk in the area where the market takes place (though not today) and then proceeded home.
Antica Bottega al Duomo – Caprese SaladAntica Bottega al Duomo – Pappardelle di CinghialeAntica Bottega al Duomo – Coarsely ground Parmesan cheese at lunch – we were both surprised by the grind; the flavor was much stronger on the dishAntica Bottega di Duomo – Dave contemplating eating his pappardelle with wild boar
When we arrived home, Linda started baking the bread she made. It rose nicely and it looked great. After some time resting at home, all four of us went for a walk and a little window shopping (though Linda and I did buy a couple of things). The town was fairly crowded now, especially with the large group of young girls from Austria. After a stop at a bottega to talk with the young lady preparing sandwiches (she makes the best sandwiches she told us), we headed home.
Anne prepared another wonderful meal that included a frisée salad with pancetta and a poached egg, fresh mushrooms in a lemon aioli sauce, and a pork roast stuffed with spinach, garlic, and shallots. It was all fantastic. For “dessert” we did some sampling of the flavored grappas we bought in Rome.
Freshly baked bread (the bread in Orvieto is not to any of our liking, so this is a real treat)Anne’s homemade dinner – We’re sorry, but we got to the salad picture a little lateAnne’s homemade dinner – Fresh mushrooms in lemon aioliAnne’s homemade dinner – Pork Roast stuffed with spinach, garlic, and shallots
In an effort to offset the caloric intake, Linda and Dave went for a walk after dinner and then returned to the apartment. That’s right, no gelato today.
You can see more pictures (mostly the caves) and be able to get more details here: 2022-09-26 Orvieto
Well, it’s Sunday, so you know what that means … it’s time to go to the Duomo where the service is in Italian. Nothing like going to a church that isn’t your faith that you can’t understand. Actually, we were able to follow along with parts of the service and, while, maybe, we shouldn’t have, we went up and took communion. Linda says God will forgive us. In addition to the pictures below, here are some recordings for you to get a feel for the service and its music.
Orvieto Duomo – Altar during massOrvieto Duomo = Altar during massOrvieto Duomo – Altar after serviceOrvieto Duomo – Pipe Organ pipesOrvieto Duomo – Altar after massOrvieto Duomo – Statues in Rear of SanctuaryOrvieto Duomo – Rear of SanctuaryOrvieto Duomo – St. Thomas statue after massOrvieto Duomo – Rear of Sanctuary with statues and stained glass after mass
After church Linda and Dave went back to the apartment and Jim cooked fried eggs and potatoes for breakfast. They tasted so good. We hadn’t had an “American” breakfast since we left home over three weeks ago.
We decided to take advantage of the sunny skies, before they turned cloudy, and took a walk around town. Jim went with us to Pam, the grocery store, to get Manitoba flour to augment the flour we got yesterday at Coop for bread. Linda also found a chocolate-lemon bar that she had to have. It is so easy to find something you “just have to try” when you walk into one of the stores.
Jim took the groceries back to the apartment and we continued our walk. We saw a few new areas of Orvieto, just beyond where we had been. The town was crowded with the various tour groups that descended on it. We decided that having a coffee drink and small pastries at a table on one of the streets would be nice. It would be a nice break and we could take in both the local scene and the tourists (it is interesting how we have separated ourselves from groups of tourists).
Orvieto – Chiesa di Sant’AndreaLinda and the scenery in OrvietoSelfie and scenery in OrvietoSteeple and rooftops in OrvietoRooftops and landscapes of OrvietoStreet scene in OrvietoOrvieto DuomoStatue above main door of Orvieto DuomoFront of Orvieto DuomoMain entry door of Orvieto DuomoFrescos above side door of Orvieto DuomoFrescos above side entry door at Orvieto DuomoLatte Macchiato with extra shots and mini cannoli (chocolate and chocolate & pistachio) at L’Officina del Gelat in Orvieto
When we returned to the apartment, we spent the afternoon in relaxation mode. We did very little, except sit at the kitchen table, look at computers, and talk. It was nice.
Anne prepared a delicious meal of bucatini in olive oil with zucchini, mushrooms, and zucchini flowers. Dave, who is not a huge zucchini fan, loved the meal and found himself back for seconds. The zucchini flowers were a real surprise for all of us. They were so good.
Deconstructed Caprese salad with rocket (arugula) and bucatini with zucchini, mushrooms, and zucchini flowers
Linda and Dave left at about 20:45 to see if any gelato shops were open. We found two of them and decided they needed to support them on a Sunday night. So, we each had a piccolo cup. Linda had chocolate with hazelnut and hazelnut and chocolate (yes, they are different). Dave had chocolate with hazelnut and Stracciatella (vanilla chocolate chip).
We ate the gelato while we walked back to the apartment. We then did a couple of “maintenance” activities like keeping track of expenses and then went to bed.
Unfortunately, the weather has changed; it is much cooler (highs in the 60s) and rainy. But, since this is supposed to be a relaxing period for us, it seems like a good time for it. We will be here in Orvieto until Wednesday, so we spent the day like we lived here.
That meant we started the morning by going to the Saturday morning market. We bought a variety of produce, principally tomatoes, potatoes, and beans (both green and yellow). Everything looked great and we can’t wait to eat it.
Produce at the Orvieto Saturday marketLinens at the Orvieto Saturday marketLinens from a van and the cheese truck at the Orvieto Saturday marketCheese and meat truck at the Orvieto Saturday market
After dropping off the produce at the apartment, we picked up the grocery carts for our trip to Orvieto Scalo (the city below the butte where Orvieto is located). We decided along the way that we needed nourishment, since none of us had eaten this morning and stopped at L’Oste del Re Cucina Tipica (that means Host of Kings Typical Cuisine). We each had a Porchetta sandwich which is roasted pork with fennel and other spices; Jim and Anne added Pecorino cheese and tomatoes to their sandwiches and Linda and Dave had just the pork. The sandwiches were amazing, moist and delicious. Linda and Dave decided that we should have shared one sandwich instead of each having one. Oh, well, we are on vacation.
Porchetta sandwich at L’Oste del Re in OrvietoNo cinghiale (wild boar), yet. But we are in the right area.
Once done eating, we walked to the bus stop and headed to Coop, the grocery store, in Orvieto Scalo. The Coop is in a mall like building with an electronics store, a home goods store, and a couple of other stores. Dave took a quick walk through the electronics store and was surprised to find a large variety of the coffee pods we use at home and for about one-half the price. Unfortunately, it’s too early for us to start stockpiling larger items. Linda went to the home goods store. She was thrilled because she found some more cocktail napkins for which she had been searching. While Jim and Anne did their grocery shopping, Linda and Dave walked through the Coop. We found more coffee pods for both our machine and some for Nespresso (which Joseph and Matt each own). Again, too early to buy things. We did, however, buy supplies for baking bread this week, flour and yeast, and a couple of bottles of German beer. The flour alone took us 20 minutes – the numbers 2, 1, 0 or 00 refers to how finely ground it is then there are flours graded by composition (specialized for what you are baking). We finally chose the one that was ‘tipo 00 and W330’. Now, we are concerned that the tipo 00 is too fine for bread, so we will head to Pam tomorrow to get a “stronger” flour.
View of Orvieto on our bus “tour”Roadside stand in Orvieto Scalo – we didn’t get any, thoughShopping mall in Orvieto Scalo
Once done at Coop, we stopped at a small bar in the mall, Piano B (I guess I forgot to mention that earlier). Linda had a Hugo Spritz, Dave a Negroni, Jim a beer, and Anne a prosecco. While sitting in the bar, we realized the weather was looking more ominous, so, we started walking to the bus stop, where we waited for about 30 minutes for the bus. Sadly, because of the rain, we were not able to get any of the nice views of Orvieto from down below.
Dave’s Negroni being made at Piano B in Orvieto ScaloNegroni in front and Hugo Spritz in the backNot the best picture, but this is a view of Orvieto from Orvieto Scalo
The walk home from the bus stop was, definitely, not the highlight of the day. The rain was coming down harder (fortunately we left all our umbrellas at home, so we didn’t have to worry about them getting wet). Each of us was soaked when we got to the apartment.
After unpacking the groceries, there were a lot of baths and showers taken.
We stayed in for the evening and just sat around the kitchen table talking and eating the excellent antipasti and Caprese salad Jim and Anne made for us.
We woke this morning and realized we would be leaving Rome today and heading back to spend time with Jim and Anne in Orvieto. We were looking forward to a little relaxation with them.
We left the Airbnb at 10:00 (check-out time), but our host was nice enough to let us leave our bags at the apartment. We said we would come back at 14:00 to get the bags (she had new clients coming in at 15:00) and that would give us plenty of time to get to our 15:30 train to Orvieto.
We headed back out to the piazza and started wandering.
The neighbor across the way seems to keep white pigeons. Not sure if they are for food or some other reason. The grey ones are on the outside.The French Embassy located in Piazza Farnese is being renovated and they have built this facade in front of the entrance.Chiesa di Brigida and bell tower located in Piazza Farnese
Dave suggested that instead of wandering aimlessly, we should go back to The Pantheon, which was pretty close, and see if the crowds had not yet formed. Well, that was a good suggestion because we were able to walk right into The Pantheon.
The Pantheon was constructed around 126 AD. It was originally a temple dedicated to all the Gods. Since 609 AD, it has been a Catholic Basilica. As you may remember, we chose to not stand in line to see The Pantheon the other day. Well, it was so beautiful inside that we are glad we returned today.
The Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Obelisk of Rames II located in Piazza della RotundaThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – View from entrance to High AltarThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – RotundaThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – High AltarThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Contemporary painting of Jesus and the disciplesThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Chapel of the Annunciation of MaryThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – StatueThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – StatueThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – This appears to be a painting of Jesus telling Thomas to stick his fingers in hi wounds in the Pantheon Chapel of the Annunciation of MaryThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – The tomb of Vittorio Emanuel II, the first king of the Unified ItalyThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – StatueThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – This picture was taken at about 10:40. The light from the opening in the top of the Rotunda seems to act as a sundial with the spot over the entrance being 12:00 noon.The Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – High AltarThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – StatueBeats me, The Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – but it is a pretty darn unique piece … anyone with insight, it would be appreciated in the commentsThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Chapel of the CrucifixThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Madonna del Sasso above the tomb of RaphaelThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Bronze bust of Raphael above his tombThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Tomb of Umberto I, son of Vittorio II who was assassinated by an American Italian anarchistThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – StatueThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Saint Joseph and the Holy ChildThe Pantheon aka Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyres – Ancient marble floors
After the visit, we needed to stop at a gelato store to let Linda get her daily fix. Today’s flavor choices were Bocia (chocolate hazelnut) and Pistachio.
We then did a little wandering and came upon an area of ruins that were the result of clearing the area in the 1920s. In addition to the ruins, there is a cat sanctuary set up here, too. We saw a few cats, but not as many as we would have suspected.
Ruins of area in Rome that was demolished in 1920s that were likely to do new constructionFrom at sign at the ruins with a overlay of a plan before the demolitionRuins of area in Rome that was demolished in 1920s that were likely to do new construction
After that we decided it was time for lunch. We thought pizza would be nice before we left Rome. Linda found a pizzeria with very good ratings, so we gave it a shot. We got bruschetta di pomodoro (tomato bruschetta) and a sausage and mushroom pizza. Both were excellent.
Bruschetta al pomodoro at L’Angoletto RomanoBoscailola pizza (Pomodoro, Mozzarella, Mushrooms, and Sausage) at L’Angoletto Romano
We headed back to Piazza Campo di Fiori. This time we were on a mission to see a vendor Linda met yesterday to buy some bottles of “cello”, not lemon, though. We ended up with four little bottles with one bottle each of chocolate, coffee, coconut, and peach. They tasted good in small quantities; we’ll see how they are to drink normally. It was now time to pickup our bags and head to the train station. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find a taxi on the piazza, so we had to walk a ways to the taxi stand.
Lemons bigger than the oranges … what’s up with that?
We arrived plenty early for the train and waited to find out from which track/platform we would be leaving. Once we saw that we headed to the track and got on the train. Jim and Anne were out running errands, so we said we would get a drink at the train station and wait for them. Dave got an Aperol Spritz and Linda got a beer.
These guys decided they could be even more direct about their nameRome Termini food court … this just seems wrong
After a ride up on the funicular and a bus ride, we dropped off our bags and headed to Engel Keller Tavern, a German beer hall. Beers were certainly in order, but Dave wanted a break from Italian food and opted for a burger. Linda stayed more traditional and went with a margherita pizza. Everything was good. Jim unintentionally got a piece of pork that was like a shank of the leg (thought it was going to be a pork burger). Turns out it was great and we will likely return before we leave so we can all get one.
Dave’s beer choice for the evening at Engel Keller Tavern in OrvietoLinda’s beer choice for the evening at Keller Tavern in OrvietoDave had a hamburger with an eggLinda had a margherita pizza
It’s been a long day for everyone, so after dinner it was time to head home and go to bed.
Our day began with us finishing our packing for Rome and having a leisurely conversation with Jim and Anne. Our train was scheduled to depart at 11:20, so at 10:00 we headed out for the funicular (video able here) and then to the train station.
Funicular in OrvietoLooking up at Orvieto from the lower funicular station
Well, that’s when the “fun” began. Our train was now delayed until about 12:20. We had already planned to have a caffe drink with Jim and Anne before we left, now it would just be a longer time to drink our cappuccinos. Oh, wait, now the train is delayed until 12:45 and the stops at the two Rome stations are cancelled. We will now have to get off the train in Orte and change to the next train to Rome. Let’s look at the schedules. Oh, okay, we get in 4 minutes before the delayed train to Rome leaves. And they are on the same platform. Good, that’s what we’ll do. Oh, hold on, now the train to Rome is on time and we’ll miss it. The next train to Rome through Orte is the train that comes through Orvieto at 13:27. Let’s just stay in Orvieto and talk with Jim and Anne and the couple we met at the station who are from Owatonna, Minnesota.
All right, the train arrived in Orvieto about seven minutes late, but that’s fine. We’re on the train and we arrived in Rome at about 15:00. A little later than we had hoped, but it works, just fine. We stood in line for, maybe, 15 minutes for a taxi, but once we were in the car, things went very well. We arrived at the apartment and were met by Alessandra, our host. In addition to being an Airbnb host, she has her PhD in anthropology and works at the National Museum of Prehistory and Ethnography. She was a wealth of information, though, maybe, a bit verbose.
Buon Giorno, RomaBuon giorno, RomaHalfway through the taxi queueIInstitute for the History of Italian Resigimento (Italian Unitication)Our Airbnb host, AlessandraKitchen and living area of apartment in TrastevereBalcony, kitchen and bathroom in apartment in TrastevereKitchen, living room, and bedroom in apartment in TrastevereBalcony at apartment in Trastavere
After having a bite of bread and a beer at the apartment, we went exploring in the Trastevere neighborhood, in which our apartment is located. This is an amazing area. The two things that we didn’t really care too much for were, lots of graffiti (not the cool stuff, mostly just tags) and it’s the weekend. Guess we weren’t thinking clearly when we booked here for a Saturday night. It is very crowded and surprisingly the Italians are very loud (where is that sarcasm when you need it). We did get to see a beautiful church, Santa Maria in Trastevere and another, St. Crisogono, but both had Saturday Mass being held, so pictures aren’t our usual look. In fact, the only pictures at St. Crisogono is of its intricate mosaic floor and belltower.
Neighborhood piazzaEarly evening in Trastevere (17:15)Santa Maria in TrastevereSanctuary of Santa Maria in Trastevere (Saturday night mass was in progress)Sanctuary of Santa Maria in Trastevere (Saturday night mass was in progress)Santa Maria in Trastevere apseSanctuary of Santa Maria in Trastevere (Saturday night mass was in progress)Apse in sanctuary of Santa Maria in Trastevere (Saturday night mass was in progress)Copper ceiling of Santa Maria in TrastevereCeiling in sanctuary of Santa Maria in TrasteverePainting of Santa Mary on copper on ceiling of Santa Maria in TrastevereFresco on exterior wall of Santa Maria in Trastevere with pieces of Christian relics around itLinda in front of Fountain at Santa Maria in Trastevere (wish we had gotten a better picture of couple at the fountain … they were proud soon to be parents taking pictures)Examples of graffitiMosaic floor in Saint CrisogonoBell tower of Saint CrisogonoBuilding in Trastevere
During our afternoon stroll, we stopped to have a drink at Freni e Frizioni (Brakes and Clutches). Linda had read that they served a great aperitivo. Well, she was right. There were multiple rice and pasta dishes, humus, cous cous, and other things. A very nice spread for “free”. The drinks were odd. Dave had a Puppet (Bulleit, Yellow Chartreuse, Lemon, Sugar, Mango & Pink Pepper Chutney) and Linda had a Wild Style (Pisco Porton Italia, Acid Green Apple, Matcha & Wasabi Syrup, Ancho Reyes Verde, Egg White). Both were very good. While we sat outside at the bar, the temperature dropped dramatically and the wind really picked up. We decided it was time to get out of our warm weather clothes.
Puppet at F^FWild Style drink at F^FPuppet at F^FAperitivo at Freni e Frizone
Dave suggested we eat something (oddly, we saw a Mexican restaurant and that sounded appealing to him). Linda said she had enough aperitivo, so she wasn’t hungry. Dave suggested we go change and head back out. We started back to the apartment and came upon a restaurant with a takeaway door. Dave ordered a meatball sandwich and it was really good.
Woman making Dave’s meatball sandwichDave’s dinner/meatball sandwich
We changed into long pants and a sweater/jacket (depending on which of us you are) and went back out for another walk. The weather was much better. The wind had slowed and that made all the difference in the world. It was so much better, we had gelato (We know, who would have thought). Along the way, we encountered a jazz band playing on the street. If you’d like to hear a little bit of their music, you can click here: Trastevere Street Music.
Pizza just down from our front doorThese two waiting lines converged at this corner. We believe they are waiting for dinner (about 20:30)GELATO! – milk chocolate and cream caramel for Dave and raspberry and white chocolate for LindaStreet scene in Trastevere (about 21:15)Street scene in Trastevere (about 21:15)Tiber River from Ponte Sisto footbridge
We decided we had had enough fun for the day, so we went back to the apartment and started thinking about tomorrow.
If you would like to look at the pictures in the post in more detail, you can click here: 2022-09-17 Orvieto to Rome
Sleeping well in Orvieto with windows open for the nice cool breeze, despite outdoor noise which can go on till midnight (conversations and street noise) then starts again at 6am. Strangely enough, it’s not bothering us… we are sleeping through it.
We started a load of wash to start organizing for our departure tomorrow. Dave and Linda took a walk to a cafe at 09:30 to use their internet, get a caffe and a croissant. We sat at an outside table and smelled sauce and pasta cooking. We were there about an hour to get our internet stuff done and send the blog out.
Back at the house, we hung up all the laundry (like they do here in Italy – low humidity so dries fast even on racks in the house; hang it outside in the breeze and it could be dry in an hour!).
Then it was time to walk again so all four of us headed to the other side of Orvieto, about 45 minutes time, and over by the top of the funicular. We took some photos, stopped in a shop selling custom shoes only to find that the owner’s wife was from Columbus Ohio and went to school at Warren Wilson College near Black Mountain, NC!
Our room at Jim and Anne’s is through the window in the top centerOrvieto architectureOrvieto TheaterOrvieto streetLeg of cinghiale (wild boar)Orvieto streetPlants and vinesLinda in custom leather shop in Orvieto (Hannah in background received her MFA at Warren Wilson College in Swanannoa, NC – about 30 minutes from our house)Orvieto streetLinda, Jim, and Anne on a street in Orvieto
We headed back after taking pictures at the top of the summit and stopped for lunch at The Palace where we had pizza and beer. The fun here was the discussion we all had about our Italian relatives – we laughed and learned and even disagreed some! We’re all thinking about our trip next week to a small town southeast of Rome where Dave’s and Jim’s great-grandmother is from. Stay tuned.
Entrance to park near funicularOrvieto’s wall and cities in the valleyCommunities and land surrounding OrvietoCommunities and land surrounding OrvietoCommunities and land surrounding OrvietoToday’s lunch consisted of two types of pizza and two types of beerToday’s setting for lunchJim and Dave at lunchBeer and pizza
On our way back to the apartment, we stopped at the Church of St. Joseph.
Jim, Anne, and Dave on a street in OrvietoSt. Joseph’s church in OrvietoSt. Joseph’s church in OrvietoSt. Joseph’s church in Orvieto
Five thousand steps later we are back at the house for more laundry detail and our packing for several days in Rome.
Anne planned a friends get together for 18:00. We went to the bar where Jim and Anne met all these people when they arrived earlier this year. We enjoyed the conversation and understand even more why Jim and Anne enjoy it here. We took a short walk to the edge of the wall to capture some sunset pictures.
Time with Jim, Anne and some of their friends at the Blu BarOrvieto sunsetDaline (South African that works for UN) and Anne overlooking the valley below OrvietoOrvieto sunsetOrvieto sunsetOrvieto sunsetDave’s Gin and Tonic enjoying the beautiful sunsetOrvieto sunsetSunset in Orvieto
After a little more time at with friends we left to get some takeaway dinner at a restaurant run by a Ukrainian couple. We had sandwiches and pasta. It was a nice meal to end the day.