Trastevere (our slice of Rome)

The day began with Dave finishing up the blog and getting it out before we went for our morning cappuccino. We have now returned to the house, 3 hours later and what a morning it was:

  • Double cappuccinos and croissants at Bar Cafe Calisto
  • Arguing Italian men at nearby table playing cards
Two different types of croissant and two doppio cappuccinos (doppio is a double shot of espresso). No, while the glass says Jack Daniels, there are no alcoholic beverages involved here.
Boisterous Italian gentlement playing cards

Off to Ponte Sisto bridge (bordering Rome/Jewish Ghetto) to begin Rick Steve’s Trass-ta-vorre walking tour.

  • We were lost 5 minutes into the audio! Finally had to coordinate the tour with our GPS map to make sure we were on the right path (we laughed a lot).

Hoping to be past Sunday morning masses, we found very family events at both Saint Cecelia’s and Saint Maria’s, two of the most famous Catholic churches in Trastevere (popular section just south of Rome and the Tiber River).

As Rick Steve’s talked about St Cecelia’s being the ‘church of music’ and therefore very popular for weddings, there they were! The bride and groom kneeling at the altar with friends and familia dressed in their Sunday best. We got some pictures and a video of the music.

Sainta Cecilia in Trastevere Church
Wedding at Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
Wedding at Santa Cecelia in Trastevere church
Santa Cecelia in Trastevere Church courtyard from church steps

At Santa Maria’s (looking forward to photos because the two previous times we’d peeked in, Mass was going on), a Baptism!

Santa Maria in Trastevere piazza, fountain, and church
Mosaics and statues above entance to Santa Maria in Trastevere Church (not the palm tree mosaics on the bottom)
Dave and Linda in front of Santa Maria in Trastevere Church
Baptism at Santa Maria in Trastevere Church
Mosaics behind altar at Santa Maria in Trastevere Church
Altar and apse in Santa Maria in Trastevere
Mosaic of Jesus with Mary in heaven in Santa Maria in Trastevere Church
Apse in Santa Maria in Trastevere moasic with Jesus in heaven with his mother, Mary, and the first to popes on each side of them. The lambs below reprensent Jesus (lambe with halo in the center) and the twelve disciples.
Mosaics in Santa Maria in Trastevere Churchs
Mosaics at the reatr of Santa Maria in Trastevere Church
Moasic floor in Santa Maria in Trastevere Church

A sampling of Suppli (a deep-fried tomato risotto) and Cacio e pepe Arancini (a deep-fried pecorino/black pepper cheese risotto – a Roman classic) then.

Suppli and Cacio e pepe Arancini

Bonnie and Tom’s craft beer bar on the way home – Dupont Saison for Linda and Wild Ale Sour for Dave.

Beer taps at Ma Che Siete Venuti Ma Fa( (thanks, Bonnie and Tom)

We have over 6,000 steps in that little excursion (which, according to this author, doesn’t get 3 stars).

Things we learned today:

  • There are a lot of Americans here too!
  • In the fresco in St Cecelia’s, a small-headed person is less important and square hands means they were alive at it’s creation
  • Italian brides have very long and elaborate gown trains
  • Linda likes Suppli better than Dave does
  • Confirmed that we both like beer!

After some work on the blog and a little R&R, we headed back out. For the first time, we crossed the bridge, leaving Trastevere, for the first time. We had gone half way before, but had not ventured to the other side of the Tiber. We had hoped to have an early dinner over there, but every place we wanted to check out didn’t open until 19:00 (yes, we know that’s early for here). We made our way back into Trastevere and had dinner at Tonnarello. This is the place that had the extremely long lines last night. Well, the line wasn’t as long, but we waited about 30 minutes for a table. We shared an order of calamari, while Dave had the Tonnarelo Cacio e Pepe (cheese and pepper), Linda had the Tonnarello Carbonara. Each of the dishes was good, especially the calamari. We also each had a glass of wine. Tonnarello is a handmade pasta that is thicker than spaghetti, but similar in every other way and is typical of Roman cuisine.

Two glasses of house wine
Outside seating at Tonnarello’s
Outside seeting at Tonnarelle’s
A little violin music for dinner
Tonnarello Cacio e Pepe
Tonnarello Carbonara

On our way home, we stopped at Cheisa della Santa Maria which is almost right across the street from us. It is a pretty church with some very beautiful artwork, but it is in need of some repair.

Altar and apse in Cheisa della Santa Maria
Ceiling in Cheisa della Santa Maria
Statue of Mary and Jesus in Chiesa della Santa Maria
Stained glass window in Cheisa della Santa Maria

Well, we went back out, because that’s what we do. You won’t believe it, though … we did not have gelato. We did get to listen to a couple of musical groups One a fairly rocky band and the other more of a brass jazz band. Both were really good for their specific genre. One of the fun things with the rock band was the audience participation by one young lady during Johnny B. Goode. We did a couple of videos of the rock band. You can hear them here::

Rock Band

Rock Band – audience participation

If you would like to see pictures in greater detail, you can click here: 2022-09-18 Trastevere